Apparently, this house sold for $1,800 in 2006. Can somebody corroborate this???
Nearby Houses:
None yet photographed. Please take a picture if you see one.
71 Ford St
- June 5th, 2009
- Photog: Funsickle
- Category: residential
Apparently, this house sold for $1,800 in 2006. Can somebody corroborate this???
Nearby Houses:
None yet photographed. Please take a picture if you see one.
This is a size that can be tackled easily, within a reasonable budget. Of course, whatever your budget is, expect a few shocks.
I notice that this one has the dreaded asbestos siding. The cost of legal removal would stagger you. What I would do (it is not dangerous in place) is hunt through salvage yards looking for a few replacement pieces and patch it up. So far as I know there is no requirement for men in respirators to install it. With a coat of paint, it doesn’t look at all that bad.
It was the “vinyl siding” of the 20′s and 30′s, if you could remove it you would probably find salvageabale wood clapboard underneath. Some of that is exposed in the picture. Of course, that might give rise to lead paint issues.
I’m no fan of Vinyl Siding, but would vinyl over the asbestos be a legal option? It might be a cheap way to at least get it closer to a useable house.
“I’m no fan of Vinyl Siding, but would vinyl over the asbestos be a legal option? It might be a cheap way to at least get it closer to a useable house.”
The first thing to remember is that the asbestos is not dangerous just sitting there. Theoretically at least (a lot of legislation in not well thought out and is the result of mania), asbestos fibers can be released into the air during demolition. I don’t believe there is any regulation on installing it, As I mentioned, I would hunt up some old asbestos siding, install it and paint it. Not the best appearance in the world, but not all that bad.
The direct answer to your question is that, yes, you can cover it with vinyl. Because of the hardness and shatterability (I don’t know if that is a word, but it is now) of the material it might be better to use screws rather than nails. Vinyl cannot be applied firmly. There has to be a looseness in the fasteners to permit the vinyl to “slide” and allow for the expansion and contraction of the material.
In most parts of the country vinyl is passe. A material similar to asbestos is used, minus the asbestos. The asbestos was only used because it is fiberous and was a “binder” for the cement, the shingle is about 95% cement. The siding now used is basically also cement, but is available as clapboards. The most common brand name is Hardie Plank. They claim to have 90% of the new construction market. I do see it a lot around here, it looks like clapboard so you have to look closely. The largest building using it, that I know of, is the Hockomock YMAC in North Attleboro. It doesn’t rot and paint rarely peels, still I would use solid color stain. I am not sure this is flexible enough to use as a second course siding, vinyl people pride themselves on their ability to “cheat” and make the siding fit.
http://www.jameshardie.com/
An item of interest I came across today. I was visiting my local Sherwin-Williams store and noted that there are now paints for vinyl siding. I was assured that they were very effective, but have no personal experience.
This may aid in all of the 1970-80′s pastel colors of vinyl siding. On the other hand, one of the reason light colors are favored is that there are a lot of “gaps” and “waves” in older siding jobs, a darker color might emnphasize those. There is also a question I didn’t ask about. Vinyl siding does a lot of expansion and contraction with temperature. Not sure how this would effect things when painting over a “joint”. Contraction might expose the original color at the joints.